Patman's Sunosub Construction Resource Page
The Sunosub I Construction page.
I hope to give you some insight in the overall construction
process of my Sunosub that I built all by myself over
the course of a couple of weeks from June 25, 2000 to
July 7, 2000.
I have decided to go with a dual 12"
Shiva water heater sonosub 24" wide, 8" port - tuned to
19-20Hz, with 12 ft^3 of internal volume, one driver on
top, one on the bottom. Sonotube is just one brand of
cylinders made up of fiberboard for pouring concrete
for the formation of round concrete poles and structures.
It's very strong stuff. Here's a link for the
Sonotube FAQ if you want to know why to use
sonotube over conventional wood-making.
Since I don't have any decent
power tools at my disposal, and after a dose of Home
Improvement's Tool Time, I went to Home Depot and came
home with a Skil Plunge Router (Model 1823), Ryobi 5"
orbital power sander, Black-n-Decker Power Drill (4.5A,
corded - didn't want to run out of power, ya know), and
Black-n-Decker Jigsaw (with easy blade attachment
contraption). That was about $175 of tools, but it'll
be worth it since it'll also allow me to build some flexy
racks down the road too, and maybe full-range speakers
I need large enough 3/4" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) material,
2 subwoofer drivers, the sonotube (24" diameter), some 8"
diameter pipe, a dual speaker binding post plate, and
some misc. bits and pieces, different types of
coarseness for the sand paper, some glue, liquid nails.
Then the fun begins!
June 25, 2000
Last night, after checking out one Home Depot and
finding no 3/4" MDF at all, I went to another one 5
miles away. I lucked up and was able to I picked up
2 sheets of 3/4" MDF (24"x49") for the endcaps, the
bonus being they were pre-cut and fit in my lil'
Honda Civic with the rear seatback folded down. I
also picked up 2 sheets of 1/4" plywood (24"x24") to
be used so that the t-nuts have something to hold on
to for the inner endcap.
I also bought 48" of Quikrete tube (it's like sonotube
but a lil' thinner). I will cut it down to around 24"
for use in the sonosub. I found one which had the
closest inner diameter of 8" that I was looking for to
use as the port. The 24" length comes from modelling
for the port length by using a handy little program
called WinISD (ISD = Interactive Speaker Design). You
can download the program at Linear Team.
Just a reminder for those planning on using 2 drivers
in their sonosubs, remember to double the Vas parameter
(for example, the Shiva's Vas is 144, so with 2 of them,
you'd set up the driver parameters in WinISD so that you
put in 288 for the Shiva's Vas parameter.
Lucky me, I now have an extra 24" piece of 8" diameter
port for future use.
Hint: For faster navigation, when you click on your first picture link,
don't close that 2nd window, but resize this window and position it so you
can see both windows concurrently. I've designed it so that you can leave
that 2nd (photo) window open, and you can click to your heart's content in
this first window, and the images will only show up in that 2nd other
window. This should also speed up your visit here. If you want separate
windows, then right click of the photo links and select the "open in new
June 26/27, 2000
I round up lots of stuff, mostly at Home Depot. Here's
a couple of raw material shots:
As a bare minimum you'll need the following in raw materials:
- Sonotube cut to volume specific length in the desired width. ($50/6ft)
- Endcaps 1.5" thick on each end ($5 each) - I recommend at least 1" reside inside the sonotube, if not all of it.
- OSB or plywood 1/4" to 3/8" thick ($2.5) as the inner endcap (so the T-nuts have something to sink into)
- Port ($7) cut to specific length in the desired width.
- Terminal cup ($5) for the speaker connection from the amp, I recommend getting the dual terminal cup.
- Subwoofer drivers (I used two 12" Shiva drivers from Adire Audio ($125 each))
- Speaker wire preferably 12-14 gauge ($0.30/foot), and spade connectors ($1.5/6 connectors), and crimping tool ($13, but highly recommended)
- Wood glue ($3)/Liquid Nails ($3)/Siliconized Acrylic caulk ($4)
- Machine screws (10-24, 2" $0.78/4 screws) and the appropriate T-nuts ($0.78/4)for mounting the driver(s), at least 8 per driver.
- Machine screws (10-24, 2.5" 0.78/3 screws) for table leg mounts, and Terminal cup.
- Thin tacking nails ($1.5/box) one inch long - get a box, which is a couple of bucks.
- Some form of legs ($2/leg) for the sonosub, at least 3 legs. I bought some 6" legs from Home Depot with
table leg attachment plates ($1.5 each) that I bolted with the 10-24 2.5" machine screws (12 screws) with nuts.
- Weatherstripping foam tape ($3) - I used 3/8" wide tape.
- Router bit ($21) - 1/4" upcut spiral twist is what I used upon recommendation.
- Spray paint ($2.5/can)/Clear coat ($3.5/can) - you can go for some primer if you'd like.
- Wood (2x2's in the desired lengths) for bracing ($3/12 foot section) - if you desire it.
- Material costs - roughly $410 (these prices listed are estimates from my porous memory)
As a bare minimum you'll need the following in hardware/tools:
- Power drill ($35)
- Power sander with sanding plates/attachments ($35)
- Plunge router ($65)
- Router guide/circle jig (for cutting in circles) ($20) - I had to go to Sears to find it
- Power jigsaw ($40) (circular saw is nice, but you'll still need a jigsaw for the terminal cup cut-in).
- Screw drivers (slotted and/or philips head)
- Drill bits ($13) - assorted sizes to make pilot holes and the final width holes.
- Clamps ($4/each) - 4 of them as a minimum, but 8 of them as a maximum for clamping down the glued endcaps
- Saw horses or work tables ($13/each)
- Tool costs - roughly $245
As a bare minimum you'll need the following in personal protection - wear them while using power tools:
- Safety glasses ($6)
- Ear plugs ($2)
- Mask to cover nose and mouth ($3 - cutting MDF results in lots of sawdust)
Like I said, I needed to start buying some power tools,
so this is a good opportunity to "prove" them into my
daily budget of life.
If I can borrow a truck tomorrow, I will bring home two
6 foot sections of 24" sonotube tomorrow morning. This
is because most construction materials places will only
sell you a 12-foot section of sonotube. That will be
the final piece of the puzzle, all that's left is the
I will buy the cloth material covering up the sides of
the sonosub later, but I'm thinking of doing it up in a
lighter hunter green color.
Making the endcaps:
I made my endcaps by cutting the 24"x49" MDF into 2 equal
pieces (nearly 24"x24.5") and glueing them together as
well as the 24"x24" piece of OSB/Plywood. Then clamp
them together for at least an hour or two.
Check out these photos:
- Photo 4 -
Here's the 24"x49" piece of MDF from Home Depot (just evenly cut it down the middle lengthwise).
- Photo 5 -
Here's two pieces of 24"x24.5" pieces of MDF with the use of a jigsaw.
- Photo 6 -
I do the same for the other piece of 24"x49" MDF and show the 24"x24" plywood. I recommend OSB over plywood.
- Photo 7 -
After glueing the MDF and plywood together, it's important to clamp them so they are nice and flush.
Since I didn't have 4 extra clamps, I used the weight of the boards and put
stuff underneath the 4 corners to apply pressure on the corners.
- Photo 8 -
Here's a shot of applying the glue on the other endcap wannabe.
- Photo 9 -
Here's my make-shift clamps: a bag of sand, a bag of pinebark, and kitty litter.
June 28, 2000
I got my buddy, Jim J., to bring home the two 6 foot
long sonotubes for me in his truck. Yay!
- Photo 10 -
They nearly take up half of my garage.
Well, after some experimenting with the router, I
figured out how to cut circles with the router guide.
The main thing is to draw out the circles in pencil,
and find the center of the circles, and drill a 1/8"
hole all the way through the endcaps for the router
guide to pivot around. Use the plunge router, make
several circular cuts - starting with 1/2" depth,
then 1" depth, and 1.5" depth. Then flip it around
and put the router guide in place where the center
hole was drilled through, and finish off the circle
by routing to 1/2" depth, which should be enough to
make the final cut through the endcap. Do the largest
circle first, and start on the smaller circles inward
on the endcap.
So today I finally got the endcaps done and the circular
- Photo 11 - me before cutting the stuff.
- Photo 12 - Router at work.
- Photo 13 - make sure the endcap would fit by cutting a 3-4" piece of sonotube off and use it for the "fit" of the endcap.
- Photo 14 - holes for the parts to be cut into the endcap.
- Photo 15 - Ta da! Holes cut out for the driver/port/terminal cup.
- Photo 16 - this is me after all that cutting up of MDF.
July 3, 2000
Now 5 days later (after 4 days of Dragon Con attendance),
I'm ready to start back on the sonosub.
I went out and bought two 2 square yards of this
hunter green cloth
with a wood grain pattern from Wal-Mart and some velcro
strips, which I plan on using to attach the cloth to the
Today I cut my sonotube to the final height (including
the endcap depths). Cutting a cylindrical object with
a 2 foot diameter very square/straight and perpendicular
to inner axis isn't as easy as it looks. Based on an
idea from ThomasW (when he and
J6P [AKA Joey Millison] did
a sonosub in a day), here's what I did:
If you use a jigsaw, you'll notice that there is a lot
of ragged paperfiber edges on the cut. I used a pair of
scissors to trim away the ragged edges. Later on, I'll
use a sander to smooth out the edges so it'll be flush
with the endcaps.
- Photo 17 -
I taped enough typing paper to make a 7 foot long banner.
- Photo 18 -
I measured from the bottom of the tube (where it had
already been machine cut at the factory) 54.5" in height,
and made about 8-10 marks around the tube, and then I
taped the banner at the marks so that I'd have what I
needed to cut away from the rest of the tube.
- Photo 19 -
then I used a thick black magic marker and drew a line
at the border of the white banner. This lets me know
where to make the cut.
- Photo 20 -
then I used a drill to drill a slit so that I could use
a jigsaw to cut down the black line. As you can see, I
now have the tube cut to me desired height.
I have a 48 inch section of quikrete tube that I'm using
for my port (8 inch diameter), and needed only 24 inches
of the tube, so I used the same principles above and cut
the port down to size:
Then I preceded to start painting the sonotube with black spray paint:
Next I wanted to drill the holes for the screws for the
Shiva driver. You need to prop up the endcap so that
you can put in the driver and mark where the screw holes
should be drilled through the endcap.
- Photo 21 - wrapped a banner at the right height.
- Photo 22 - drew the black cut line.
- Photo 23 - now I have 2 ports roughly the same height.
Since I'm using 10-24 machine screws and t-nuts, I have
to drill progressively larger holes until I get the right
size so the screw fit into the hole nice and snug. This
take longer than you think it would. But you persevere
and you get them drilled.
- Photo 26 - I used 3 small buy.com DVD shipping boxes to prop up the endcap.
- Photo 27 - I drop in the Shiva driver and mark the holes by drill a small pilot hole in all 8 holes.
Next, you have to make sure the t-nuts will fit when you
hammer them into the insides of the endcap screw holes,
so you have to drill a slightly larger hole on the inner
side of the endcap. Be careful not to drill more than
0.5 to 1 inch in depth when making this slightly larger
hole for the t-nuts.
At this point, the endcaps can be painted.
- Photo 28 -
since some people have never seen a t-nut, here it is
with a sloted bolt screwed into it.
- Photo 29 -
here are the 2 parts separated.
- Photo 30 -
checking for fit of hole drilled for the t-nut.
- Photo 31 -
since this is DIY, I decided I wanted some extra bonding
power for the t-nut, besides just having the pointed ends
dig into plywood, I put a bit of liquid nails near the
hole for extra adhesion.
- Photo 32 -
t-nut put into place, ready to be hammered into the
plywood (either plywood or OSB can be used as it's a
softer wood that won't wear away like MDF would if you
tried relying on the pointed ends to provide the
adhesion for the t-nuts.)
- Photo 33 -
t-nut hammered into place.
- Photo 34 -
- Photo 35 -
since this is DIY, I went a bit nutty, and applied more
liquid nails all around the t-nut after it's been nailed
into the wood because I wanted to minimize air-leaks.
- Photo 36 -
fininshed all 8 t-nuts for this endcap, and did the same
for the other endcap. The second one always goes by
quicker because you know what you are doing, and know
how you want it done.
July 4, 2000
Here's what happened today:
Whew! That was quite a day, another 7-8 hours flew by.
- Photo 41 -
Here are the 6 inch table legs I found at Home Depot.
- Photo 42 -
Here are the table legs painted hunter green color.
- Photo 43 -
I had to get some 10-24 machine screws 2.5 inches long
so that I could thread a nut on the other side of the
endcap for the terminal cup.
- Photo 44 -
Finished installing the nut and bolt for the terminal cup.
- Photo 45 -
Placed the leg holders as close to 120 degrees from each
other given the constraints. I also sanded down the
endcap surface to get it smooth. This gets fixed later.
- Photo 46 -
Drilled all the holes for the leg holders.
- Photo 47 -
Screwed in 10-24 machine bolts 2.5 inches long and
threaded a nut on the other side of endcap. I did this
because MDF is not good for screwing in a wood screw to
get the table leg holder in place very well.
- Photo 48 -
Sanded the top endcap to smooth out any rough spots.
- Photo 49 -
It may not look too impressive, but I sanded down the
entire outer surface of the sonotube so it was nice and
smooth - makes it easier to apply velcro strips with
- Photo 50 -
I then applied some clear coat on both the top and
bottom endcaps. This shows them drying.
- Photo 51 -
Next up is making the internal wires for each Shiva
driver. I was going to have to make a cable which
would split the positive leads (and the negative leads)
into 2 leads each to feed each voice coil in preparation
for hooking it up as a 4 ohm load. So I split one lead
into 2 leads and twisted the cables (12 gauge) together
- Photo 52 -
I then soldered the twisted wires together.
- Photo 53 -
I then wrap the split connection up in electrical tape,
and prepare put on some terminal connectors at the ends
of the cable.
- Photo 54 -
I advise using a crimping tool (correctly) to attach the
terminal connectors to the wires.
- Photo 55 -
Here's what the finished cable for the bottom Shiva
driver looks like.
- Photo 56 -
Here's the longer finished cable for the top Shiva
driver looks like in place (for now).
- Photo 57 -
I finally screwed in the table legs into the bottom
endcap - you can see the threaded nuts/bolts for the
leg holders and terminal cups here as well.
- Photo 58 -
Finally, I begin to pop in the bottom endcap into the
sonotube. I put wood glue on the inside edge of the
sonotube, and apply glue on the side of the endcap as well.
- Photo 59 -
I needed to sand off some of the endcap's width, and
then I used a hammer (keeping a small stack of paper
between the hammer and the endcap) to get the endcap
- Photo 60 -
I finally am able to hammer in the endcap as flush as
possible to the sonotube's edge.
- Photo 61 -
I tack in some thin nails along the edge of the exterior
of the sonotube to keep everything in place.
- Photo 62 -
With the nails in place, it's possible to stand the
sonosub on its table legs now.
- Photo 63 -
This is the inside shot of the bottom endcap before
- Photo 64 -
I begin caulking the inside of the bottom endcap -
I had to crawl into the tube and apply most of the
caulk at that time.
- Photo 65 -
I then add in the port. I put some caulk on the inner
edge of the port hole. Then I tack in the port with
small thin nails as I did with the bottom endcap.
- Photo 66 -
I finish up caulking the bottom endcap and the port on
the inside of the sonotube.
- Photo 67 -
I caulk the outer edges of the bottom endcap.
- Photo 68 -
I caulk the edges of the port.
- Photo 69 -
Once the caulk has dried, I use my power sander and
sand down the tube edges to mate with the endcap in a
- Photo 70 -
I re-apply some more spray paint to touch up the sanding
- Photo 71 -
For bracing vertically, I bought a 12 foot 2x2 piece of
wood, and had Home Depot cut it in half. You need one
piece inside the tube before it's cut down to the
correct size (just line it up to the side of the tube,
make a mark on the wood, and then subtract off the top
- Photo 72 -
I then cut the wood down to size.
- Photo 73 -
Using some Liquid Nails, I apply a nice helping of it on
the bottom of the piece of wood and balance the other
piece of wood so that it gets attached in a vertical
- Photo 74 -
I wait into the first piece of finally glued into place,
and then cut another piece, and glue it into place -
using that small piece to keep it balanced while the
- Photo 75 -
Just a shot of the stuff/tools that was used today
sitting on a table.
I go back to work tomorrow, so I won't have as much
time as I'd like to work on it.
July 5, 2000
You'll probably think I'm really really slow. I made
progress, but I'm not quite finished. Here's what happened today:
So that's it for tonight (I squeezed in mowing the grass
too). I'm fairly confident I'll have the sub up and
running by tomorrow night!
- Photo 76 -
I realized I needed to somehow figure out a way to
keep the top Shiva driver's cables near that driver,
so I used the bracing inside and tapped in some nails
to make a "loop" to thread the cables through and keep
them near the top of the sub.
- Photo 77 -
This gives you a view of the use of the bracing as a
cable hook. I took the braces out at this time as I
start to pop in the top endcap. I finally figured out
that the easiest way to get the bracing poles into
position is to put the top endcap in first, and then
put liquid nails on the top and bottom of the bracing
poles. Then slide the poles through the top driver
hole and into position.
- Photo 78 -
Here I applied some glue on the insides of the the
sonotube just before I put in the top endcap.
- Photo 79 -
Start popping in the top endcap. I had to sand down
the sides again to get it to fit just right - this took
lots of time.
- Photo 80 -
I finally get the endcap into the sonotube.
- Photo 81 -
As described earlier, I get the sonotube on its feet,
and apply liquid nails on both ends of a bracing pole
and feed it through the top driver hole and get it
situated just right.
- Photo 82 -
Here's a close-up of both bracing poles installed.
- Photo 83 -
Once the bracing poles are in place, I applied some
downward pressure on the top endcap to make it flush
with the sonotube. There's a 1/16" of extra sonotube
material that needs to be shaved off soon.
- Photo 84 -
I caulk the top endcap where it meets the sonotube on top.
- Photo 85 -
I tack in nails to keep the top endcap in place.
- Photo 86 -
I start what I call "Blind Man Caulking" as I caulk the
inside of the top endcap to make it airtight as possible.
- Photo 87 -
I finally finish caulking the inside top endcap after
trip on the bottom side to see what still needed
caulking. This was also time consuming.
- Photo 88 -
Since there's extra sonotube material, I start sanding
down the sonotube. This was also time consuming and
I'm sure my neighbors appreciated the sanding sounds
nearly 11 p.m. tonight.
- Photo 89 -
I finally finish sanding down the sonotube flush with
the top endcap, more or less. I try filling in the
sonotube's slight arcing openings in its fiber composition
with glue to make the sonotube's edge smoother.
- Photo 90 -
I finally get to spray paint the top endcap once again.
I'm letting it dry overnight, and will apply a clear
July 6, 2000
I now have a functional Sonosub! I finished up around 10 p.m. tonight. I'm so tired. But here I am to
update the rest of the story:
I get home and notice some more bumps on the top
endcap, so I sand them down, apply some more spray
paint, and then a clear coat. Finally I ran out of
spray paint, so it was a good time to stop with the
top endcap finishing for now. Then I was ready to
put in the bottom Shiva driver.
Well, there you have it, how to build a 2-driver sonosub
in 107 photos. Take a bow if you been here with me the
entire way! Thanks for words of wisdom and
encouragement along the way from the following folks from both
Home Theater Forum and
Home Theater Talk:
- Photo 91 -
I pull out both sets of driver wires to be hooked up
to the terminal binding posts.
- Photo 92 -
Here's an inside view of the 2 set of driver wires
connected to the 5-way binding posts of the terminal cup. Make sure you designate one wire as the negative lead, and the other, by default is the positive lead.
- Photo 93 -
I apply weather stripping over the pre-drilled holes
for the Shiva driver. Later on you'll see more weather
stripping on the inside circumference, but I wasn't able
to get the driver into the hole, so I made due with just
the one strip covering the holes.
- Photo 94 -
I've now connected both voice coils for a 4 ohm load for
the driver by connecting both positive wires to the
positive leads on the voice coils and doing the same for
the negative leads.
- Photo 95 -
I commence screwing in the 10-24 2" flathead screws
manually (I would have much preferred phillips head
screws, but Home Depot didn't have them, and I didn't
feel like driving all over creation to find them).
- Photo 96 -
Be careful when screwing in flat slotted head screws, or
you'll nick the endcap paint job (which I did) or you'll
put a hole in the driver's cone.
- Photo 97 -
I finally finished screwing in all 8 screws for the
bottom Shiva driver. Eight more to go!
- Photo 98 -
Here's a top down look at the results with the bottom
- Photo 99 -
I start on the top Shiva driver installation by putting
the weather stripping on top of the holes like I did with
the bottom driver.
- Photo 100 -
Here's the wires for the top Shiva driver. I'm glad I
used one of the bracing poles to nail in the wires so I
wouldn't have a problem getting to the wires when I
needed them now.
- Photo 101 -
Here's the top Shiva driver also with its 2 voice coils
wire in parallel for an effective 4 ohm load.
- Photo 102 -
I've seated the top driver in the hole and lined up the
screw holes too.
- Photo 103 -
I screwed in all eight of the screws manually again with
a screwdriver because I was afraid of slipping with a
power screwdriver/drill and poking a hole in the driver
cone, or messing up the endcap paint job.
- Photo 104 -
I am finally finished with all the screws. Whew!
- Photo 105 -
Well, here it is, the functionally finished product.
Go ahead, applaud if you'd like. I did.
- Photo 106 -
Here's the sonosub in my HT environment for the interim.
I'm not sure how/where I'll be able to re-locate it
without having exposed speaker wires following it to
its new placement position if I decide to move it around.
- Photo 107 -
Here's the sonosub with the fabric that I chose to cover
it up with (maybe by the weekend) draped over it. It
definitely looks better than the black spray paint.
I plan to sew in some borders for with hunter green
wood pattern fabric, and then using velcro to hold the
fabric in place.
- Tom Vodhanel
- Ron Stimpson
- Joey Millison
- Mike Knapp
- Andrew Pratt
- Lex Mann
- Pat from Iowa
- and so many others whose names escape me at the moment!
Since I finished it late this evening (had to edge/trim
the yard while the paint/finish was drying),
I haven't been able to crank it up, but what I've heard,
I like it veddy, veddy much. :D
I can't wait to give it a workout tomorrow night!
Stay tuned for the qualitative evaluation, and
some SPL numbers if I get a chance soon.
July 9, 2000
You want numbers? Here's what I did for the measurements:
Note 1: I decided my present HK PA5800 5-channel amp wasn't beefy
enough to provide the necessary current for good 4 ohm operation,
so I have re-wired each driver to only one voice coil for 8 ohm
operation for the time being (instead of 2 voice coiles in parallel.
It's more stable this way given the amp I'm using now. Once I pay
off the bills for the Sunosub, I'll be shopping for a more powerful amp.
Note 2: With the system volume calibrated for 75dB SPL for
each speaker, at 0dB for the subwoofer preout level,
I was getting 85dB SPL for the subwoofer, which I
felt was too boomy, so I went to -5dB for the
subwoofer preout level for a level of 80dB for the
subwoofer, and it blends in better. But now I have
plenty of headroom if I ever did want to raise the
bass levels. So if I want to increase the bass, I can
adjust the subwoofer output for a bit more boom if I want it.
For the 1m on-axis measurement, I ran up the master
volume level to read 75dB and kept the volume setting
there. Then I ran through my StrykeZone Bass CD for the
following frequencies and recorded the SPL reading
off a digital Radio Shack SPL meter. The meter
requires some adjustments to the raw number reported,
so there's a column for the adjusted SPL value. Here's
1m from the bottom of the subwoofer with SPL meter on
Freq SPL SPL(adj)
15 76 85.5
17 74 82.5
20 80 87.5
22 77 83.5
25 76 81.5
28 78 82.5
32 80 83.5
36 81 83.5
40 84 86
45 86 87.75
50 86 87.5
56 90 91
63 90 90
71 89 89
80 82 82
89 88 88
100 77 77
112 86 86
As you can see I have a nasty room induced hump around
56-63Hz (which I've alway had, so I expected it). I
also have a small hump at 20Hz (the sunosub is tuned
to around 19-20Hz). There's a sliver of port noise,
but nothing too annoying during normal playback of music
and DVDs. One day I'll get the Behringer EQ device to
get rid of most of that bump I get from 56-63Hz.
I'm roughly flat 85dB +/-3 dB from 20-80Hz with a bit
of hump as mentioned above.
For the nearfield measurement, I kept the same master
volume level, and placed the SPL meter real close to
the cone of the bottom driver and recorded the SPLs
for each frequency listed below:
Freq SPL SPL(adj)
15 89 98.5
17 93 101.5
20 96 103.5
22 97 103.5
25 99 104.5
28 101 105.5
32 104 107.5
36 106 108.5
40 106 108
45 106 107.75
50 105 106.5
56 106 107
63 104 104
71 102 102
80 102 102
89 101 101
100 99 99
112 101 101
From 20-80Hz, I'm pretty flat at 105db +/- 3dB for the
near field response.
It's too late for another go at a reference level SPL
Anyhow, I was pleased with the low end performance, it
does go low, and I do fear for structural damage
to my house at some point in time if I play it loudly.
July 10, 2000
I tested for my tuned frequency for the sub, and it's right
around 18-19Hz, so I didn't do too badly with the port length
at all. I had tuned it for around 19-20Hz. And I also tested
both drivers with the same results. If I had a CD with
frequencies in 1Hz increments, I could nail down the tuned
frequency (I had to guess between 17.5Hz and 20Hz from my BassZone CD).
I did a lot of listening to demo quality scenes tonight. I took
a listen to Air Force One, Dances With Wolves, Fight Club,
The Phantom Menace LD, The Matrix, and both dts Demo DVDs #3
and #4. My volume level was set to about 3.25 on my Sony DB930
(only a Sony owner have an idea where that is on the volume
scale), and then I took out my Radio Shack digital SPL meter,
and for the peak LFE scenes, I was getting 100-105dB and all
I was feeling was the bass. Believe me, it's plenty loud
enough at that level.
Both the Relic and The Haunting clips had incredibly active
bass, and the Sunosub was getting broken in quite nicely.
The jet fighters and the explosion of the refueling tankers
and the dogfights in Air Force One made the sub come alive.
The rumbling in the Buffalo Hunt scene from Dances With Wolves
places you right in the middle of the action. When Neo gets
"awakened" from his pod in The Matrix, the bass in that scenes
is heavy and intense (as well as the helicoptor scene near the
end of the movie. Saving Private Ryan also was amazing in
that you really feel like you're on the battlefield with
the soldiers, ducking from all the artillery fire and the
bombs while being pushed back by all the tanks marching on.
It's bass like this that makes the entire sub building exercise
worth every second and every penny you spent on the sub.
Here's gag photo #1: a shot of a gag cover for this SUNoSub:
July 31, 2000
I finally decided to finish the outer covering for the Sunosub.
I needed two 6 feet pieces of cloth (roughly 44" wide, 60" long)
to cover the beast because the
pattern was running length-wise, and I needed about 76" of
circumference to cover the Sunosub. So I had to put two pieces
of cloth together. Here's the photos:
- Photo 110:
I find the right pattern to match the edges. Fred helps mark the spot.
- Photo 111:
Here's a closer shot of matching the 2 pieces of cloth.
- Photo 112:
Since I can't sew that well, I rely on Unique Stitch, basically cloth glue.
- Photo 113:
I fold the edges over as I measure the height of cloth required.
- Photo 114:
Here I apply some of the glue. I did an application near the fold,
and then I did one right outside of the inside "stitch".
Then I needed to use something to attach the cloth to the Sunosub,
I decided to use velcro with a sticky backing to attach to the
cloth and the outer cover of the Sunosub:
- Photo 115:
I find this at Wal-Mart - Industrial Velcro 2" wide.
- Photo 116:
Here's the velcro strips you get out of the package. It was enough
to get the job done with one package for me.
- Photo 117:
Here's an example of attaching the velcro hooks side to the Sunosub's
I put four 3" sections equally spaced on both the top and
bottom of the sub (8 pieces). I also put one half-way down the side of the
initial starting point of the cloth wrap for added adhesive power.
I put all the velcro cloth sides on the inside of cloth pieces and
carefully attach the cloth to the Sunosub's velcro hooks. At the
outer flap of cloth where the cover ends, I used the velcro
hooks/cloth at the junction. This allowed me to secure the cloth
onto the sub in a tight form-fitting fashion. I wrapped the cloth
in such a manner that the flap is facing the back wall.
So how did it turn out? You can be the judge:
And just one more look including the top side driver:
- Photo 118:
Here's the Sunosub in its completed form. My cat Pooh happens to in the
shot conveniently for a sense of scale.
But here's a couple of final looks of the SunoSub:
A close-up of the Sunosub in the home theater setup.
And how it looks integrated in the overall home theater:
I hope you've enjoyed looking at how I created my
first SUNoSub! It was a time-consuming process
since I was playing it by ear as I was going along,
but I did make mental notes on how I'd do something
different on the next time I did one of these subwoofer
in the future.
Update: 9-15-00: New roller casters on the legs!
Based on the favorable feedback on roller casters on sonosubs, I decided to put them on my present Sunosub I.
I like having these roller casters on my Sunosub I, it really makes moving it around a lot easier without worrying about breaking off one of the legs if I'm not careful moving it. I will be doing the same for my other 2 Sunosubs. It's a little work, but worth it.
- Photo 120 : Here's some 6" beefy table legs and the roller casters (plus some paint for my current Sunosub project).
- Photo 121 : I used a saw to cut about 2" off the table leg so that I will end up with 6" of clearance between the floor and the bottom endcap..
- Photo 122 : After some elbow grease, I finally saw off the bottom 2" of the table leg.
- Photo 123 : To fit the roller caster into the table leg, I had to drill out a hole which would provide a snug fit with the roller caster's stem. This required just drilling in successively larger holes until you get the width/depth you need.
- Photo 124 : Here's the roller caster installed into the newly drilled hole of the table leg.
- Photo 125 : After more elbow grease, I finish all 3 table legs with the roller casters installed.
- Photo 126 : This is a close-up of how the table leg/roller caster combo looks when installed on an angled leg mount.
- Photo 127 : And this is a final look of the new table leg/roller caster combo installed. I will paint them when I get some time and paint.
I got the beefy legs ($1.61 each) and the roller casters ($2.97 each) at Home Depot.
9-20-00: Last update
I finally got around to picking up some hunter green glossy spray paint and painted my new legs with the roller casters.
- Photo 128 : Here's the unpainted sawed off legs with their screws screwed into a USPS priority cardboard mailer.
- Photo 129 : The spray painting begins.
- Photo 130 : The spray painting (after 2 coats) is finished.
- Photo 131 : Here's a shot of the 3 painted legs and their roller casters. I applied a coat of clear coat to protect/seal the paint.
- Photo 132 : Painted legs and roller casters assembled.
- Photo 133 : Attaching the legs to the Sunosub.
- Photo 134 : Close-up of the legs and roller casters.
- Photo 135 : Final look at Sunosub I.
That's it, I'm finished with Sunosub I.
So how many have visited this subsonic webpage since 7-9-2000?
Back to the Patcave