Patman's Sunosub II Construction Resource Page
The SunoSub II Construction page.
This is a DIY (Do-It-Yourself) project. I hope to give you insight in the
overall construction process of the Sunosub II that I built all by myself
over the course of months from September 1, 2000 to March 29, 2001.
The reason for the length of time was due to my changing the porting design after
I had completed the subwoofer. Actual construction time shouldn't take over a couple of
weeks if you know what you are doing. There are some places where I screwed
up in doing this project, but I'll show a few shots of where I went wrong.
I'm using the Tempest
15" driver from
Adire Audio. Just to recap the design specs
for this effort:
- 1 Tempest 15" driver
- 1 6" port 22.5" long - tuned enclosure to about 16.5Hz
- 10 ft^3 of internal volume
- 24" wide sonotube roughly 41" tall before endcap thickness.
- 3/4" thickness of MDF endcap on the inside of the sonotube.
- 3/4" thickness of MDF endcap on the outside of the sonotube
- 1/4" of plywood laminated to the inside bottom endcap for the t-nuts.
My original porting design had three 4" wide ports 36" long for an enclosure tune of
16hz. I built this, and discovered that the ports were just too long and too close to each
other on the bottom endcap. This created some noises, rattling, resonances at high SPLs.
You'll see photos of when I cut off the original bottom endcap later on. So I ditched this
design and had to retrofit a new bottom endcap with a single 6" wide
port. I should have heeded the KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle.
The 22.5" length for the 6" wide port comes from modelling for the port length for a targetted
tuning frequency of 16.5Hz for the enclosure by using a handy little program called WinISD (ISD =
Interactive Speaker Design). You can download the program at
The reason I chose 16.5Hz as the tuning frequency is to provide as much driver protection
with such a low tune without the need of a subsonic filter. This is because the driver is
"unprotected" at frequencies underneath the tuned frequency of the box/enclosure, so
by going with 16.5Hz, it's protected for most low end frequencies while sacrificing a
little bit of output near the 20-25Hz range.
Why use a round cylinder of Sonotube? Sonotube is just one brand of cylinders made up of
fiberboard for pouring concrete for the formation of round concrete poles and structures.
It's very strong stuff. Here's a
link for the Sonotube FAQ if you want to know why to use sonotube
over conventional wood-making.
I was able to use the power tools from my previous Sunosub efforts, as well
as non-power tools:
- Power drill - Black-n-Decker 4.5A corded model ($35)
- Power sander with sanding plates/attachments - Ryobi 5" Orbital model ($35)
- Plunge router - Skil Plunge Router ($65)
- Router bit ($21) - 1/4" upcut spiral twist is what I used upon
recommendation from many members of the DIY HT community.
- Router guide/circle jig (for cutting in circles) ($20) - I had to go to
Sears to find this part.
- Screw drivers (slotted and/or philips head)
- Drill bits ($13) - assorted sizes to make pilot holes and final width holes.
- Clamps ($4/each) - 4 of them as a minimum, but 8 of them as a maximum for
clamping down the glued endcaps if you don't have heavy bags of sand.
- Saw horses or work tables ($13/each)
- Terminator crimper tool ($12)
Tool costs: roughly $245 - but I had all of these tools from my previous
construction efforts, so dividing among 3 sunosubs, my tool costs were about
$90/subwoofer project (including tax).
As a bare minimum you'll need the following in raw materials:
- 1 sheet of 49"x97" 3/4" thick MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) from Home
Depot for the endcaps ($20/sheet)
- OSB or plywood 1/4" to 3/8" thick ($2) as the inside of the bottom
endcap (so the T-nuts have something to sink their teeth into)
- 1 Tempest driver from Adire Audio ($140/driver)
- Sonotube (24" diameter) 43.5" tall ($50/6 feet)
- 1 6" diameter PVC - I had to buy a 12 foot section from a plumbing supply store ($17)
- Terminal cup ($5) for the speaker connection from the amp, I recommend
getting the dual terminal cup.
- Sand paper (80, 120, 220 grit) ($6-$10)
- Wet sandpaper (400, 600, 1500 grit) ($6-$10)
- Speaker wire preferably 12-14 gauge ($0.30/foot), and spade connectors
- Wood glue ($3)/Siliconized Acrylic caulk ($4)
- Machine screws (10-24, 2" $0.78/4 screws) and the appropriate T-nuts 10-24
5/16" depth ($0.78/4)for mounting the driver(s), at least 8 per driver.
- Machine screws (10-24, 2.5" 0.78/3 screws) for table leg mounts, flared
port and terminal cup.
- Thin tacking nails ($1.5/box) one inch long.
- Some form of legs ($2/leg) for the sonosub, at least 3 legs. I bought
some 6" legs from Home Depot with table leg attachment plates ($.80 each)
that I bolted with the 10-24 2.5" machine screws (12 screws) with nuts.
- Weatherstripping foam tape ($3) - I used 3/8" wide tape.
- Silver enamel spray paint ($3/can) - around 1 or 2 cans (if done right)
- Silver hammered enamel spray paint ($5/can) - around 1 can (if done right)
- Clear enamel spraycoat ($4/can) - around 1 or 2 cans (if done right)
- Primer spray paint ($2/can) - around 1 or 2 cans (if done right)
Material costs - roughly $285 (these prices listed are estimates from
my sieve-like memory)
As a bare minimum you'll need the following in personal protection -
wear them while using power tools:
- Safety glasses ($6)
- Ear plugs ($2)
- Mask to cover nose and mouth ($3 - cutting MDF results in lots of sawdust)
Hint: For faster navigation, when you click on your first picture link,
don't close that 2nd window, but resize this window and position it so you
can see both windows concurrently. I've designed it so that you can leave
that 2nd (photo) window open, and you can click to your heart's content in
this first window, and the images will only show up in that 2nd other
window. This should also speed up your visit here. If you want separate
windows, then right click of the photo links and select the "open in new
Day 1: September 1, 2000
I took a leisurely pace on this project. Again, it'll feature some different
construction challenges from the other Sunosubs. The top will have a rounded
off look to it. I'll be using a silver silk cover on the sonotube. The bottom outer
endcap will provide a ledge for the sonotube to rest upon.
I go shopping and come home with most of the raw materials from Home Depot:
- Photo 1 : Here are the cut pieces of MDF. I went to Home Depot, and bought a 49'x97' section of MDF and had Home Depot cut it into 2 main pieces of 26"x26" (I plan on having a 25" wide bottom outer endcap), and 2 pieces of 24.5"x24" for the internal endcap on both ends, and 1 piece of 24"x24" of plywood (for screwing/glueing in the T-nuts for the driver holes). I wound up with some excess MDF as well.
- Photo 2 : Here's a shot of some raw materials (I don't use the skinny table legs): 10-24 machine screws (2" and 2.5" long) and t-nuts, glue, speaker wire and terminal crimp-on connectors, liquid nails, angled leg mount plates (which I don't use), silicone caulk. Also you'll see: protective glasses, mask, and ear plug - it is imperative that you use them when you are cutting up the MDF and making your endcaps, etc.
- Photo 3 : More stuff - Drill bits, hammer, wrench, masking tape, electrical tape, sandpaper attachments, weather-stripping.
- Photo 4 : Here's a shot of the sonotube I'll be using. I have to cut it down to size.
- Photo 5 : More stuff (from 9-5-00) Batting material (from Wal-Mart's fabric department), some really thick table legs with felt bottoms and straight mount plates, wood filler for the endcap edges, dual-input terminal cup, power sand paper, and some metallic paint for the endcaps (yup, I might go for a T2 look for Sunosub II).
That's it for the raw materials for now (you'll see the circle jig later on). Let's make some endcaps, shall we?
- Photo 6 : The Power Tools - Skil Router 1823, Black & Decker Power Drill, B&D Jigsaw, Ryobi Orbital Sander - all bought on previous Sunosub I construction in July.
- Photo 7 : Squeeze out lines of wood glue on the MDF pieces so you can glue them together to increase the thickness to 1.5" or more. This will be for the top endcap.
- Photo 8 : For the bottom endcap I glue a 1/4" thick piece of plywood to the 1.5" thickness of MDF. This is so that when I use the t-nuts later on, it has some real wood to sink its teeth into, which allows for me to take out the driver when I need to without stripping the t-nuts out of the MDF material.
- Photo 9 : To make sure the pieces of MDF/plywood are glued nice and tight, I pile on a bag of play sand, some cat litter and a bag of pine bark. I let this set overnight.
Day 2: September 2, 2000
Good afternoon, I went shopping for ideas for the outer covering for Sunosub II, but came back empty handed for now, but that's okay, I have almost a month to wait for the Tempest driver.
I decided to make the holes and cuts for the endcaps today. It's threatening to rain, and I'll be damned if I cut MDF inside my garage (I learned that lesson the hard way on Sonosub I), so I wait to around 4:30 p.m. to start cutting the endcaps.
I start with the top endcap because it's very basic (no inside holes)
I will have about 1.15" layer of MDF on the inside of the top endcap and 1" (3/4"
MDF plus 1/4" plywood) on the inside for bottom endcap.
This means I'll be cutting each layer for the bottom endcap individually because they
will have different widths to them. The outer bottom endcap will be around
25" wide (just flush enough to provide a ledge for the sonotube material) and both inner
endcap will be roughly 23.75" wide.
Well, after some experimenting with the router on my previous Sunosub, I
figured out how to cut circles with the router guide. The main thing is
to draw out the circles in pencil, and find the center of the circles, and
drill a 1/8" hole all the way through the endcaps for the router guide to
pivot around. Use the plunge router, make several circular cuts - starting
with 1/2" depth, and then 1" depth since we are just cutting through 3/4"
of MDF thickness. Do the largest circle first, and start on the smaller
circles inward on the endcap. Make sure you route in the recommended
direction for your router. I have to go in a counter-clockwise direction
for my particular router, otherwise, you'll risk injury and bad router cuts.
- Photo 10 : I set up some saw horses to use for routing the circular cuts. I make sure I find the center hole for a 24" wide circle. Use whatever method to find the center hole. Then I used an 1/8" drill bit with my power drill and drilled a hole straight through the MDF. I find it's best to route what you need on one side, and then flip the MDF piece over and route the remainder. You see the circular jig piece that I got from Sears, and it accepts the Skil Router very well.
- Photo 11 : With this 1/4" endcap edge that I've decided to route in, the endcap winds up being just a bit over 24", but my circle only does 24" circles. So using a little bit of ingenuity, I used a paint stirrer, 2 thin nails, 1 1/8" thick nail, and the power drill to create a circle jig extender: I drilled in holes on the wood paint stirrer: one for the pivot hole, one for the old pivot jig bit, two for the holding the circle jig straight. I drilled 2 holes in the metal piece of the circle jig, which then go through the holes in the wood paint stirrer and using thin nail to hold the circle jig in-line with the extender circle jig. I wish this photo was a close-up of my handy-work.
- Photo 12 : Here's one shot of me after my battle with MDF sawdust. I wear the towel on my head to keep sweat out of my eyes, and I find that I get all sorts of funny looks from my neighbors when I dress this way.
- Photo 13 : This gives you an idea of the result I was looking for. The endcap should just pop in on the top of the sonotube's opening and meet at the routed edge.
- Photo 14 : Here's a shot of the test fitting for the sonotube and the top endcap.
- Photo 15 : Since I had to put a 1/8" hole in the center for the circle jig, I need to plug up the hole with wood filler.
- Photo 16 : I use my power sander to sand away the excess wood filler for a smooth finish.
Note: I make the revised bottom endcap routing on February 3, 2001.
Now I start on the bottom endcap and the holes needed: driver hole, terminal
cup hole, and the port hole (which will have to be done when I receive the
flared port since I don't know how wide of a hole to cut into the endcap).
- Photo 17 : Here's a shot of the inner bottom endcap, and I'm about to drill in the center pivot hole for the circle jig.
- Photo 18 : I drill in the center hole.
- Photo 19 : I route a 25" wide hole with the router.
- Photo 20 : I test for fit using my test piece of sonotube.
- Photo 21 : I fit all the parts on the inner bottom endcap to see how things need to be situated.
- Photo 22 : I draw in the circles for the driver and port, then the squares for the leg mounts.
- Photo 23 : The test sonotube piece is positioned so I can use the outer bottom endcap as ledge by cutting is an inch wider in diameter.
- Photo 24 : Back to the inner bottom endcap: the hole for driver gets routed.
- Photo 25 : The driver hole is now a reality.
- Photo 26 : Some more MDF gives way, and a hole with width of the outer diameter of the port is created.
- Photo 27 : The port is test fitted in the port hole.
- Photo 28 : For the outer bottom endcap, my circle jig needs a bit of extension to cut a hole wider than 24". This is my solution using some a paint stick and 2 nails.
- Photo 29 : Using the make-shift extended circle jig, I proceed to route out a 25" hole for the outer bottom endcap.
- Photo 30 : Ta-da! The outer bottom endcap is routed.
- Photo 31 : Then I route out the hole for the driver. Don't cut a 14" wide hole, it needs to be around 13.75" wide (measure for yourself) since 14" is too wide. It's important to line up the holes correctly before cutting the hole. That's the Tempest driver.
- Photo 32 : I test fit the hole by plopping the Tempest driver into it. Nice and snug. The hole needs to be cut
- Photo 33 : Here the port hole has been cut, but its width is the inner width of the port so that it'll act as a ledge for the port.
- Photo 34 : I put the inner endcap on top of the outer endcap, line up the holes. Notice how I've created that ledge for the port by cutting the outer endcap port hole judiciously.
- Photo 35 : I test the ledge for the port.
- Photo 36 : It's time to round off the edges for the outer bottom endcap.
- Photo 37 : I use my power sander to round off the edges. Some people may elect to use a roundover bit, but I wasn't too concerned with a wider roundover radius.
- Photo 38 : Now it's time to drill in the mounting holes for the driver.
- Photo 39 : The port hole is smoothed out with sandpaper. Some people may elect to create a flare with a wide roundover bit.
- Photo 40 : I draw the rectangle for the terminal cup in preparation for routing out the hole.
- Photo 41 : I use my router to cut out the hole. The hole doesn't need to be perfect, so this is acceptable.
- Photo 42 : Here's the terminal cup hole on the outer bottom endcap.
- Photo 43 : I test fit the terminal cup into the hole. You won't necessarily get it right the first time, but just shave off enough to get the cup to fit.
- Photo 44 : This conserves some endcap material by cutting in the 2 sets of terminal holes for the inner bottom endcap.
- Photo 45 : The router is ready to chew through some MDF.
- Photo 46 : The holes are cut out. Since there's some plywood, the holes are a little more difficult to cut, but it's not too bad.
- Photo 47 : I line up the 2 endcap pieces. You'll notice I put marks on the inner driver hole so I can line them up easily in the future before I glue them together.
- Photo 48 : Here the teminal cup is test fitted into both layers of the endcap.
- Photo 49 : Finally I get to glue the 2 layers together.
- Photo 50 : Making sure I don't get any weird warping, I put a piece of MDF underneath it before I throw on some weight.
- Photo 51 : I throw on sand and litter. I had to monitor this until the glue dried to make sure the 2 layers glued together in the right orientation to line up the holes. Don't screw this part up or you'll be making new endcaps.
Day 3: September 3, 2000
Today I paint the legs:
- Photo 52 : I rig up a leg holder out of a USPS cardboard mailer by drilling 3 holes for the leg screws to fit through and hold the legs upright while I paint them with a silver chrome spray paint.
- Photo 53 : Here are the painted legs.
Finishing up the bottom endcap - we'll be fast forwarding to March 19, 2001.
- Photo 54 : Next up are the holes for the leg mounts and the driver mounting holes.
- Photo 55 : After marking the holes, I drill in the holes for all 3 leg mounts.
- Photo 56 : Still drilling holes, and testing for hit with the screws.
- Photo 57 : Quite a mess, but all the screw holes are drilled through.
- Photo 58 : Since I'll be using T-nuts, I need to drill slightly wider holes about 5/16" deep so the T-nuts will fit. I do this for the 8 driver holes.
- Photo 59 : This is a close-up view of a T-nut. The pointy spikes dig into the plywood for a more secure hold into the wood. MDF would strip easier, so that is why I use the 1/4" plywood layer.
- Photo 60 : I apply a dab of glue to better secure the T-nut into the hole. This is done for all 8 T-nuts.
- Photo 61 : Here I hammer home the T-nuts.
- Photo 62 : I apply more glue on the backside of the T-nuts for added peace of mind.
- Photo 63 : It's time to paint the bottom endcap, so here's the primer layer on the edges and minimal undersides.
- Photo 64 : I spray primer on the outer side of the bottom endcap.
- Photo 65 : Somehow I forgot to drill the holes to mount the terminal cup, so here's the drilling that takes place.
- Photo 66 : The screws are tested for fit.
- Photo 67 : I begin to screw in all the leg mounts as well as finish up the terminal cup.
- Photo 68 : I screw on the table legs to test for fit.
- Photo 69 : Finally the endcap is done for now. You'll see all the nuts and washers I screwed onto the screws.
Day 4: September 4, 2000
Sonotube preparation and internal top endcap attachment:
Here's the application of the batting on the inside wall of the sonotube:
- Photo 70 : Time to cut the sonotube - I create a big banner using typing paper.
- Photo 71 : The banner is wrapped around and taped at the proper height of the sonotube.
- Photo 72 : I use the banner to draw a line around the sonotube with a black sharpie marker.
- Photo 73 : Here I use my hacksaw. First I groove in the line, and then use the groove to aggressively saw through the sonotube.
- Photo 74 : Just another view of my hard work sawing through the sonotube.
- Photo 75 : Finally I have the proper length of sonotube (right around 43.5")
- Photo 76 : I sand off the rough edges of the cut. I also power sanded it.
- Photo 77 : Here's a shot of the sonotube paint black (there's no real good reason to do this, but I do it just the same).
- Photo 78 : I am in the midst of sanding off the bits of paint for a smooth outer surface.
- Photo 79 : I finish up sanding down the sonotube.
- Photo 80 : Now it's time to glue in the top endcap. I apply some glue to the insides of the sonotube.
- Photo 81 : I smear the glue around on the inside edge.
- Photo 82 : I also smear glue on the top endcap.
- Photo 83 : Here I hammer in many tack nails
- Photo 84 : I finish nailing in the nails and the top endcap in in place. As you can see the edges are not flush, so I'll need to remedy it.
- Photo 85 : I start to apply caulk to the inside of the top endcap.
- Photo 86 : I finish the caulking of the inside of the top endcap. .
- Photo 87 : Here's the wood filler I'll be using.
- Photo 88 : I start to apply all the wood filler around the perimeter of the top endcap.
- Photo 89 : Looks pretty yucky, but it'll do.
- Photo 90 : I use my power sander and sand away the wood filler.
- Photo 91 : Here's a close-up of the sanding to get a roundover edge.
- Photo 92 : The top endcap wasn't quite wide enough, so I needed to build up that edge with filler.
- Photo 93 : To seal up the cracks from wood filler, I used a little glue.
- Photo 94 : While it looks okay, I decided I needed some wood filler all around, so...
- Photo 95 : Here's more wood filler.
- Photo 96 : The power sander gets used again to sand down the sides and edges.
- Photo 97 : Yet another close-up of the sanding job.
Here's the table legs and drilling of the holes for the caster wheels:
- Photo 98 : I roll in the batting material, spraying the adhesive as I roll in the batting.
- Photo 99 : Here's the batting all glued to the inner walls of the sontoube.
- Photo 100 : Using the drill to put in some holes for the caster wheels in the legs.
- Photo 101 : Finished with all of the drilling for the caster wheels in the legs.
Here's a few photos of what I had to do with my former design to salvage the sonotube for this project:
- Photo A : As you can see, there used to be 3 ports on the bottom endcap. It had a really pretty chrome paint finish. Here, I use a banner to give me a cut line for the sonotube.
- Photo B : Using some elbow grease and a hacksaw, I cut off the bottom endcap.
- Photo C : Here's a final shot of insides of my previous design for Sunosub II. Try to keep your ports no more than 5 times the width of the port. I was at 9 times the width with this design.
Day 5: March 24, 2001
Okay, after I made that detour with my original design, I had many months of inactivity on Sunosub II. So I finally got all my parts in
place, and was able to make some progress on the completion of this project (I had a hard time finding those straight table leg mounts
and got super-lucky when Home Depot got some of them in - though they are clearing all of those products out forever). Another delay was
getting the dual-input terminal cup (local supplier ran out of them, and I finally broke down and ordered one from
Madisound). Now that I have all the stuff, I can cruise on in.
- Photo 102 : Here's of shot of me drawing the cut line for the 6" wide port.
- Photo 103 : After the port has been cut, it's ready for placement in the bottom endcap. I add some weatherstripping for a snug fit.
- Photo 104 : I apply some caulk on the ledge.
- Photo 105 : More caulk is applied on the perimeter of the port to seal it to prevent air leaks.
- Photo 106 : More glue is applied to the inside walls where the endcap will fit into the sonotube.
- Photo 107 : I pop in the bottom endcap.
- Photo 108 : I then hammer in tack nails around the perimeter of the sonotube.
- Photo 109 : I proceed to caulk the inside of the endcap.
- Photo 110 : Here's a close-up of the caulk job on the inside. It's a messy job.
- Photo 111 : Now it's time to paint the bottom endcap. It's better to paint the bottom and then the top endcap because the bottom has legs and the paint job won't get messed up on the bottom endcap.
- Photo 112 : Once I paint the bottom endcap with shiny silver paint, I apply a clear coat to protect the finish.
- Photo 113 : I let the paint dry in the heat of the sun.
- Photo 114 : To install the Tempest driver, I run weatherstripping around the perimeter of the hole. I was using 3/4" wide weatherstripping, but wind up cutting away 3/8" of it for the driver to fit into the hole.
- Photo 115 : With the driver close to being installed, I need to make some cables to attach the terminal cup to the driver. I use 12 gauge speaker wire, female spade connectors and a crimping tool.
- Photo 116 : A close-up look at crimping the connector to the speaker wire. Make sure you crimp the dimple on the top side of connector side for snug fit.
- Photo 117 : I complete 2 sets of speaker wires for both voice coils of the Tempest driver.
- Photo 118 : Here's a close-up of the speaker wires connected to the terminal cup from the inside.
- Photo 119 : The Tempest driver connected to the terminal cup and about to be installed.
- Photo 120 : After installing the Tempest driver, the screws are screwed into the T-nuts for a secure installation. The T-nuts allow for multiple access of the driver without fear of stripping the MDF.
- Photo 121 : All the screws are screwed into place and the project is coming together.
That's it for today. I'll be working on the top endcap's finish next.
Day 6: March 25, 2001
Well, it's getting close. I need to paint the top endcap and wrap the cover around it.
- Photo 122 : First I prime the top endcap.
- Photo 123 : For some reason, I got some weird moisture problem, and it resulted in ripples. So I sanded down the ripples, and applied wood filler, and sand everything down.
- Photo 124 : After getting past the ripple problem, I spray a layer of silver paint on the top endcap, and then I wetsand it for smooth it down as well as I can. but I can still see imperfections in the surface.
- Photo 125 : In an effort to cover up the imperfections, I use this Hammered style of silver spray paint. It works pretty well.
- Photo 126 : I apply a coat of clear coat to protect the finish.
- Photo 127 : Here's a shot of the finished bottom endcap with everything in place.
- Photo 128 : Here's the silver silk material I will be using for the outer cover. I can't sew, so I will use Unique Stitch glue, and then I'll use bits of velcro to attach the cover to the sonotube.
- Photo 129 : This is my way of creating a hem for the silk material. I should have gotten a seamtress to sew me a hem. Ah well...
- Photo 130 : Here's a shot of Sunosub II with its new coat. I'll try to tighten up the silk material for a better fit when I can get another pair of hands to help me.
- Photo 131 : Here's a shot of Sunosub II integrated into my home theater setup.
Day 7: March 26, 2001
Here's a graph of the near field response of Sunosub II:
Graph 1 :
The nearfield measurement shows a F3 around 22Hz (using 105dB as the
average SPL level), you can see where the Fb (tuned enclosure frequency) of
16.5Hz show up in the dip near 15Hz on the 1m measurements. I expected the low end F3
not to reach 20Hz, and I was right. If I tuned higher, I might have gotten it,
but I would sacrifice driver protection, and I just would rather have
driver protection (from bottoming out the driver) over a few dB's down
I made the near field measurement by playing a 22Hz tone, placing the SPL
meter right near the dustcap of the driver, and turning up the volume until
it was near 95dB (totally arbitrary dB number, you can use any useful SPL,
like 75dB if you wanted to, but I wanted some separation between the near
field and the 1m measurement for the graph.
Day 8: April 8, 2001
Here's some of my comments in regards to how Sunosub II performs in my
Home Theater setup:
My reaction: Music sounds full, rich, enveloping with the sub engaged.
The sub was pretty tight in its transient response too.
I tested The Phantom Menace (TPM), and everywhere that I use to get
pops/bottoming out (the Jedi ship getting blasted, Pod Race toward the
end of the race, and some other spots) with Sunosub I (before I re-tuned
it to 16Hz), I got no such pops or bottoming out
with Sunosub II. It handled all those scenes with aplomb.
I tested the space dogfight fight at the beginning of the Lost
In Space DVD, and it played through it without a hitch.
It also survived the dts version of The Haunting DVD (for my purposes)
with peaks hitting 107dB from my seating position (and even then I needed
to be listening at insane volumes, probably measuring a reference level of
80dB at the same position) from 10-11 feet away, I normally wouldn't even
listen to DVDs at this level, but I was curious to push the sub a little
harder than normal.
Sunosub II didn't even break a sweat playing the opening sequence from
Toy Story II.
Hope this helps people get off their duffs and build their own sonosub,
with the right tools, they are easy to make and you'll be surprised at the
quality of bass you can get with a lot less money. Also, the pride of
building stuff you use in your HT is another plus.
Well, there you have it, how to build a Tempest sonosub in 130 photos.
Take a bow if you been here with me the entire way! Thanks for words of
wisdom and encouragement along the way from the following folks at:
Home Theater Forum,
Home Theater Talk, and
Home Theater Guide:
- Dan Wiggins and Brian Bishop of Adire Audio
- Tom Vodhanel and Ron Stimpson of SVS Subwoofers
- Mike Knapp
- Andrew Pratt
- Lex Mann
- Pat from Iowa
- Julian Data
- Brian Steeves
- and so many others whose names escape me at the moment!
I hope you've enjoyed looking at how I created my 2nd SunoSub! It was a
time-consuming process, but I learn something from each one of these subs
I build. And as always, I make mental notes on how I'd do something
different/better the next time I do one of these subwoofer in the future.
So how many have visited this subsonic webpage since 4-8-2001?
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